Tag Archives: Catholicism

Chango

In Santeria, my orisha is Chango, one of the guerreros or warriors.  His colours are red and white like Santa Barbara, he wields metal weapons and is often depicted with lightning.  He is often thought of as a virile–a Casanova and all that is mean.  Why are those synonymous in Cuba?  Or Anywhere?  But that’s not how I identify with him.  Each orisha has many paths  that they can take, and ways you can be like them.  I like that when syncretized with Catholicism, Chango has some gender–bending, and his tendency to mete out divine justice.

I have a strong sense of Justice.  Whatever is good and fair compels me, regardless of how it favors or whether it directly affects me, which sometimes confuses others.  It isn’t as noble as it seems, and can often be annoying, like a compulsion.  You see for me, the absence of truth, facts and fairness is offensive.  Facts and justice are my religion, so it effects me whether the disservice concerns me or not.

I greatly dislike situations like this one, where there is no right answer.  The writer in me thrives on ambiguity and grey area, but ethically it makes me uneasy in daily life.  There’s just so much we can’t make sense of, from child labour to servitude that borders on slavery, the attention we receive from men as well as our very presence here.

Even if there is no right answer for everyone, I like to at least have my own rules, my own personal sense of what’s best.  that’s the beauty of Chango–he delivers his own swift justice, not anyone else’s.  My fiery Chango is down to its embers when I can neither come to grips with a situation nor make it right.

“This is Why People Believe in God…”

Early morning traffic jam in Cotonou, Benin

“…they think, ‘Please God, make the rain stop!'”

My roommate may be on to something, there…

We woke up our first morning in Benin to a glorious monsoon-like splash for a few hours.  The call to prayer pleasantly lulled me awake, but I wish i had heard it four more times that day.

The rain helped break the heat, but created massive traffic jams and many puddles throughout the Chant d’Oiseau hotel.

The group of 22 of us (plus our TA Julie and profs Lori and Rebeca) are all staying on one floor without strangers, so we wander around the balconies and each other’s rooms, debating brushing our teeth with tap water, or the use of the weird orange tarp on our beds.  (Word on the street is that it’s to protect the bed from rats, but that has been neither confirmed nor denied, and probably never will be.)

Bug net, in the fully upright position

At night my roommate Erin and I tuck ourselves into our forts, AKA beds with bug nets.  We’ve learned to keep chapstick, the alarm clocks and a bottle of water on the INSIDE and have even perfected the art of shutting our lights off from inside our “forts”.

Amid the fairly quiet night, exposing the screeching of bats and scuttling o creatures, we drift off around midnight and get up around  eight or our breakfast of baguette du pain and cafe or du the.

We’ll be going to Porto-Novo on Thusday, bu we’ll be back at the end of our trip again, as the airport is here in Coptonou.  We’ve spent the last few days with students of Abomey University, which was enlightening and fun.  Stay tuned for more updates this week!

El Cajon: Partido Dos

Cajon a los muertos is a religious ceremony in the Santeria tradition (also known as Regla de Ocha.)  I talked briefly about the emotional implications of the event, but what follows is a more factual description of what a Cajon is and what actually happened there.  Unfortunately, we weren’t allowed to take pictures, but a professional photographer, friend of Profe’s and Santeria practitioner did and will give them to us at some point.

A quick and dirty explanation of Santeria: it is a syncretic religion based on Catholicism and various West African religions/traditions, specifically Yoruba.  Religions like Santeria are very representative of Cuban culture at large, which is a mezcla between European and African influences that have been mixed into a new, unique experience.

A Cajon is a ceremony to bring down the spirits of the dead to communicate with us.  In this instance, the Cajon was for Profe, so we were hoping to hear from his father or grandmother.  Profe has been an initiate of Santeria since 2007, but more on that later.  He was dressed in all white, ate a ritual meal before the Cajon, and had his head cleansed and blessed before we began.

In a tiny humble house in a tiny humble barrio near Habana Vieja, 30-50 people crammed into a small open living room.  There was an altar in one corner and some cloth hanging from the walls, but other than that it was pretty barren.  The altar had a crucifix, some empty glasses, a few rosaries and some flowers and candles.  The walls had angels, a crucifix and a banner that said “Felicidades” (congratulations).

Not everyone stayed the whole time, and people took time going outside to get fresh air.  There was no shower in this house, no air conditioning.  We left rum at the end for the house, as a thank you for hosting and feeding us.  This is not a tourist attraction, and it appears that for the uninitiated it is by invitation only.  Basically, if we didn’t know Profe we would never witness any of this, or meet a lot of the religious figures on the island.

The actual ceremony involved drumming, call and response, singing and tons of dancing.  When a spirit came down, the music would stop and we would wait or interact with the spirit.  There were also breaks to go outside, grab some water or to let the santeros (practitioners of Santeria) who the spirits possessed rest and recuperate.  My understanding is that if a spirit or oricha (a deity, more on that later) comes down to you, the person has no recollection of what happens during that time.  Profe told us that during one of his first Tambores (I’m attending one Thursday, explanation to follow) the oricha drank copious amounts of alcohol but the person who was possessed later came to entirely sober, and with no scent of alcohol on them at all.

Because this is Cuba, smoking cigars actually helped bring down the spirits, as did all the dancing.  And of course, there was rum.  Santeria (and other related religions) are ecstatic, which is to say that positive energy expended by the participants is used to enrich the religious experience.  In this case, it means that blessed drums were played while everyone present danced to their hearts’ content.  At one point I was informed not to cross my arms—apparently it’s uninviting to the spirits, and beyond that, if you are present you should be participating.

For many of us, it was strange trying to find the correct way to act.  We weren’t told very much going into the Cajon, and I was one of the few who actually had researched Regla and other similar religions before.  I was pretty thrown, so I can only imagine people who were even more thoroughly new to this were pretty freaked out.  It took us a while to get over the class, racial, social and religious differences between us and the santeros and just dance.  The whole thing became a lot more enjoyable once we realized that participation was encouraged and there was almost no way we could mess that up.

The first hurdle was the cleansing.  We each had to go up and dip our hands in some water, and then some cologne was put in our hands.  There was some elaborate hand motions that the santeros did around their heads, forearms, and the alter.  Of course, the Cuban hand snappy thing came into play.  It turns out, like most things in Santeria, it’s important that you do it, but not really how.  If you want to run your wet hands through your hair, go for it.  If you want to pat the crucified Jesus on the head, have at it.

So we danced for a while, and then someone would start to move erratically, usually someone who had been smoking a lot.  In total, there were at least ten cigars smoked by probably only 4 people in that afternoon.  Early on, after talking to Profe and some others, a clairvoyant man who was later possessed called Justin to the front to offer him some counsel.

Once Justin was called up to the front, it was clear: at any point in time, absolutely anything could happen.  That was frightening at first, that total helplessness.  When the second guy started dancing wildly I was right next to him, and he kept bumping into me.  Often, an experienced santero would accompany the person who was possessed to make sure they didn’t bump into anything or do anything inappropriate.  They stopped the first guy because he kept barking at Ruth (U Michigan professor) and her stomach.

Three people were…possessed?  Spirits came down three separate times.  They offered advice, one spit rum in Brittan’s face, and one cried uncontrollably and had to be brought to another room to calm down.  The second one (the rum-spitter) was quite lively.  He laughed and danced, touched us all on the forehead and cleansed everyone again with water, which at that point was quite refreshing.

We were brought a sort of grain rum whose name literally translates to the sparks that fly when a train cracks over the rails.  Yeah.  At the end we were given the most delicious lemonade ever, as well as a delicious chicken soup that looked like sludge but tasted like home and comfort and magic.

The entire thing was about four hours, and we danced almost the entire time.  It was great to feel so welcome.  Once we figured out the deal, I think we felt much better.  You’re supposed to express yourself physically, however you want, whatever moves you.  People came in off the street to join in, always heading to the basin at the front to cleanse themselves before jumping right in.  Some clearly knew each other, but others didn’t appear to.  On many occasions we’ve witnessed the instant community and camaraderie amongst santeros, especially strangers.

The whole thing was just this kind of bizarre, energetic, celebratory, unsettling, effusive experience.  Some hated it, some loved it, some were comforted, some were unsure, some kept changing their minds.  But there’s no doubt about it: we were all shook up, each in our own way.

Once I let go and just started dancing, it was great.  A little rum, some cigar smoke, good music, friendly people and a lot of dancing can’t help but put you in a good mood.  It makes sense, I could see the energy just building and building with the singing and chanting and smiling.  If anything could make a dead person come back, I think that much positive energy unleashed in one small, hot room would do it.  It certainly makes more sense than candles and a Ouija board.

I know this is really foreign in so many ways for a lot of you, so please, leave your questions in the comments and I’ll do my best to answer them.  If I don’t know the answer, I’ll find out from one of the many santeros I know.

Cajon a los Muertos

It was strange to see symbols I’m so familiar with placed in such a strange situation.

I know it was silly, but I was afraid, and I did think Nana might come down to talk to me, or send a message.  It turned out not to be that silly, because Justin got a message right at the beginning.  I then got real freaked out that I could be called out.

It of course later occurred to me that if this is real, it doesn’t matter where I stand, if a spirit wants me it’ll find me.  And then I thought dammit, what if a spirit wanted to come but saw how afraid I was and stayed away?  I think that’s something Nana would do, stay away if she looked straight into my heart and saw fear.

Maybe that should tell me something, if I’m really so afraid of what Nana would think of my current life.  I wonder if it would be a positive review.  We’re coming up on a decade now, and it’s strange to think how different I was then, yet still possessing a lot of the same essential qualities.  I wonder how much of who I am now she saw then?  And how much who I am now is a person she knows, and wants to know.

All the same, I wore my saints’ medal from Eena and thought of Nana a lot.  And I couldn’t help it, I crossed myself when the time came, and I said the Our Father (but in English.)  And when we went up t cleanse ourselves with the petal-filled water, I basically genuflected and did the Regla equivalent of blessing yourself with holy water.

I realized that everywhere I go, one of the few things I always am sure to do is go to a lot of religious places/ceremonies.  I attend mass, I go to mosques and temples and shrines.  And now, some woman’s living room in a humble barrio in Havana.

I kept thinking how you could be anywhere in Cuba, and people could be doing this in their house and you wouldn’t even know.  How strange?  Someone could walk right past this and have no idea.  Well, that’s what I kept thinking till the singing and dancing started.  Then people on the street started joining in, clapping and dancing and coming in to cleanse themselves.

It’s strange that a few decades ago, that would’ve been illegal.  Everyone there could’ve been arrested.  But that’s the thing about faith; it persists.  Many see it as frivolous or illogical, but if it were, wouldn’t people give it up more readily under duress?  And what’s more logical, to live your life with a heart heavy with pain, or to feel lighter knowing the people you loved are well looked after, or even perhaps looking after you?

I know it’s easier to have faith sometimes, because when Nana died that’s what made it easier.  When I looked at the coffin, the thought was, “That’s her.  I can’t believe that’s her.  I can’t believe she’s just there, that little box.  That’s all there is.”  That was the only thing that had the power to make me cry during that Christmas season.  But every time I was able to banish that thought, to think of her smiling, clapping her hands just the once while laughing at some joke or silly thing Kev and I did, it was ok.  When she was still a strength and a power somewhere, with her hair permed and intact, her thick glasses on and her cute sweatsuits, I could suck it up  and bring the unblessed host to the priest.

I realize this contains almost no details or clarificationas to what a cajon is, or what Santeria is all about.  That’ll come later this week, when I’ve had a chance to process some of this.